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The centerpiece is carved as guilloché in sunburst-form, and interestingly enough

Le 27 February 2015, 08:09 dans Humeurs 0

The centerpiece is carved as guilloché in sunburst-form, and interestingly enough doesn’t contradict the contours of the month disc and maison nameplate. The numerals-dial has a circular sating finish, with 7 o’clock inscribed with “Cartier” as part of its “V”. The red, hammer-shaped hand rotates about the sunken day-dial and indicates the day. There are no seconds, but that’s good because the dial is informative enough and, more importantly, the watch tells time on a macro level. Reading the day may take a tad getting used to, but the learning curve shouldn’t be too steep given the fun and ingenuity behind the red-hammer concept. Legibility on the watch should be a breeze regardless of the amount of decoration on the dial thanks to the balance between guilloche and satin finishes. Cartier numerals have always been bold, and the blued, sword-shaped hands only add clarity. So, while it may seem busy at first glance, the dial is well balanced and legible. Visible through a sapphire case back on the Rotonde de Cartier Annual Calendar beats the automatic manufacture caliber 9908 MC. It is decorated with Geneva stripes and a perlaged mainplate, and it vibrates at 4Hz for about 48 hours. Again, the highlight of this movement is the quickset mechanism of the crown that allows setting of all indicators via rapid rotation. The Rotonde de Cartier Annual Calendar is another solid offering within a developing series of pieces that have been met with positive expectations, and that continue to set the bar higher yet again for Cartier. The piece will be available in 18 carat white or rose gold. Pricing has yet to be announced, though with the 45mm piece in the low 40s, we'd expect pricing to be similar.

You're Invited: Come Hear Each of our Benjamin Clymer Speak For the Horological Society Of latest York, Tonight

Le 27 February 2015, 07:58 dans Humeurs 0

You're Invited: Come Hear Your own Benjamin Clymer Speak At The Horological Society Of latest York, Tonight The Horological Society of New York is the oldest watch-related guild in the country. And as of last year, it's been going through a bit of a resurgence thanks to some new blood. Once per month, the group hosts speakers on various topics impacting watch lovers and watch makers. Tonight, January 5th, 2015, our own Ben Clymer will be speaking on the role digital publishing has played in the growth of the field. I think we've all dreamt of it, but few have made it happen. I'm talking about a room, in your home, where you can slip away from the rest of your family, and just totally immerse yourself in your passion. In other words, a room where you can just sit and play watches. Well, a man by the name of Chris, a Heuer and vintage chronograph collector of sorts, signed into OnTheDash last week and showed off not his great purchases of 2014 like everyone else. No, no. His triumph would be much greater. Chris was there to show off his very own dedicated watch room, built into the library of his house. Here are a few pictures of the room leading up to his secret lair, then what you'll find inside, such as as old auction catalogs, cool old racing ephemera and, well, tons of cool old watches. Yes, we are all really, really jealous. To kick off 2015, here are eight interesting watches currently on the market, including four from eBay. This week's mix includes a bevy of brands big and small, from Tudor, Rolex, Bulova, and Eterna to Heuer, Gallet, Waltham by Blancpain, and Vacheron Constantin. (And as a bonus for all you Universal Geneve fans, I've included a "Bidder Beware" note about a Univeral currently for sale on eBay.)

A Week Within the Wrist: The Zodiac Killer whale

Le 27 February 2015, 07:42 dans Humeurs 0

A Week Within the Wrist: The Zodiac Killer whale 1953 was the year the dive watch was born. Sure, the quirky Art Deco OMEGA Marine went underwater in 1932 and (Rolex-cased) Panerais were on the wrists of Italian commandos in Word War II, but it was at the 1953 Basel watch fair that the first purpose-built dive watches appeared. While the Rolex Submariner wouldn’t make its official debut until the 1954 fair, two other brands proudly introduced their divers in ’53: Blancpain with its Fifty Fathoms and Zodiac with the Sea Wolf. They say history is written by the victors and indeed, Blancpain and Rolex have capitalized on their long lineages while the Sea Wolf was all but forgotten, other than its dubious distinction as the wrist-wear of a serial killer in the 1970s who took his watch fetish a little too far by calling himself “Zodiac.” With Zodiac’s forthcoming re-release of the Sea Wolf, it’s a good excuse to look back at the pioneering watch’s history and evaluate the new watch. The Fifty Fathoms and Submariner today are regarded as upmarket luxury timepieces, but the Sea Wolf stayed true to its tool watch heritage throughout its history. Largely unchanged through the '50s and '60s, it only added a date function (the “Datographic”) and swapped the engraved metal bezel with a Bakelite ring. From its earliest incarnation, it kept its modest 35 mm case, thin lugs and snap-on case back, which, with the ornate script dial text, triangle hands, and colorful bezel options, gave it a quaint, almost delicate look, unlike the burly divers from OMEGA, Rolex, and others. Despite a snap-on case back and push-pull crown, the old Sea Wolf was rated to 20 ATM (~200 meters) from the start, the deepest in 1953, and proudly proclaimed “Especially Water-Tested” on the back. While the Rolex Sub and the Fifty Fathoms may have been worn by elite military divers, the Sea Wolf was favored by regular enlisted soldiers serving in Southeast Asia thanks to its rugged build and affordable price. When the 750-meter-rated Super Sea Wolf was introduced in the early '70s, even the U.S. Navy SEALs adopted it, as Zodiac famously announced in magazine ads of the day. Then Zodiac fell on hard times, as did so many brands during the Quartz Crisis years. Notoriety from the brand’s connection with the San Francisco serial killer didn’t help. Zodiac faded away, changing hands and releasing some forgettable models more associated with mall fashion watches than with the brand’s former glory. When Fossil bought the Zodiac name in 2001, it used its vast resources to reinvent the brand, but gone for the first time was the Sea Wolf name.

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